“Ralph’s corner” — Siena Palio

Unlike traditional horse races, in the Palio the horse can cross the finish line without a rider and still “win” for the Contrada (the term for the 17 fiercely competing City districts). Also, horses are selected by lot the week of the race, leaving little time for jockey/horse practice. And finally there is strategy among friendly and unfriendly Contrades that can include bribes for help in the race, and sometimes even whipping of other jockeys–with a traditional crop, or “nerbo,” made from a dried, bull penis. In this moment, Dino’s world shrank to the narrow strip of dirt between his horse’s hooves and the finish line.

The Campo, Siena’s historical square, was a cauldron of emotion. Each Contrada’s colors splashed vivid hues against the weathered, ocher walls of the medieval buildings. Each Contrada, with its emblem, anthem, and sacred bonds, stood as a family within the larger tapestry of the city.

Flags snapped in the breeze, and the scent of centuries-old towers mingled with the sweat of the crowd, creating an intoxicating atmosphere thick with reverence and anticipation. For the people of Siena, this was not merely a sport; it was life itself, a ritual steeped in centuries of pride and rivalry, distilled into three laps around the square. Winning the Palio meant glory, honor, and the right to lord over rivals for the next year. Losing meant agony, shame, and seemingly relentless taunts of enemies. For some, it meant carrying the weight of defeat for a lifetime.

Dino Pes, born in 1980, has a long history as a Palio jockey. This was his 10th race, and after falling four times in the early 2000s while racing for five other Contrades, he was thrilled to be selected by Lupa, the Wolf. The people of Lupa lived and breathed for this day, and Dino felt the weight of generations pressing down on him, a pressure that made his hands tremble as he steadied his horse, a sleek Anglo-Arab steed named Benitos AA.
Dino was determined not to let this opportunity slip away, not after his early failures had left him burdened with almost unbearable shame. Palio is far more than just a race to the Sienese.

The drums fell silent. A breathless hush swept over the Campo as the starting rope tightened. Dino leaned forward, his pulse quickening. Benitos tensed beneath him, muscles coiled like springs. Across the square, Dino caught sight of an Istrice (Porcupine) contradaiolo spitting on the ground—a gesture meant to curse his rival’s luck.

Dino met the glare with a fierce smile. He would not lose. Not today.

As the cannon fired, the world exploded into motion. Hooves thundered against the dirt, and the crowd’s cheers rose to a deafening roar! Dino’s vision narrowed to the track ahead as Benitos surged forward, the wind tearing at his clothes. This was the Palio—where past and present collided, where every second held the weight of eternity.

The seemingly endless 90 seconds passed, and then the world erupted… Dino had won! His first Palio victory ever! He was dragged from his horse onto the shoulders of his adoring Contrada fans. He had earned a place in the revered record books, going back 700 years. Dino was now a legitimate hero! His years of daily practice to be a Palio jockey finally paid off!

Regarding San Vincenzo: Why Does the Experience of Palio Matter?

The Siena Palio offers just a glimpse of the extraordinary experiences within a three-hour journey from San Vincenzo, even by train. Siena, Florence, Cinque Terre, and even Rome are all within easy traveling distance, each with its own rich tapestry of history and culture. Moreover, there are many other lesser-known cities within that radius that offer everything from Medieval hilltop “stone charm” to the Bolgheri, and other wine regions, to centers of Etruscan history, Napolean’s exile, and more. The vicinity of San Vincenzo is an exciting, convenient base!

Incidentally, while Dino Pes may have struggled to eventually win the “Big One”
—Siena’s famed Palio—In 2023, he won the “Palio of the Etruscan Coast” for the 11th time, riding for Cecina, a city virtually beside San Vincenzo. Perhaps 2024 was fate… Siena, built from an Etruscan heritage, combined with Lupa (“wolf”), selecting a jockey with Etruscan winning history along with a little “In boco al lupa, ” which is Italian for “in the mouth of the wolf… or the phrase for “Good Luck,
” resulted in the fateful win!

In my previous articles, I listed the reasons that led me to choose San Vincenzo as my new home (here’s the article >>> “Introduction to ‘Ralph’s Corner’ – Coming to San Vincenzo”).

Discovering Siena: Architecture and Art

Siena’s architecture is a magnificent blend of Gothic splendor and medieval charm. The Piazza del Campo, one of Europe’s most beautiful squares, anchors the city’s layout. It is not only the heart of Siena but also the stage for the Palio. Surrounding it are architectural marvels like the Palazzo Pubblico, Siena’s town hall, with its elegant façade and the soaring Torre del Mangia, which dominates the skyline and houses the Museo Civico with its extraordinary collection of frescoes.

A short walk from the Piazza del Campo lies Siena’s crown jewel, the Duomo di Siena. This stunning cathedral is a marvel of Romanesque-Gothic architecture, featuring a striking black-and-white striped façade and an intricately designed interior. The exterior, adorned with sculptures by Giovanni Pisano, is a testament to the grandeur of medieval craftsmanship. Inside, visitors are greeted by the splendor of inlaid marble floors depicting biblical scenes, the awe-inspiring dome, and the Piccolomini Library. The Archaeological Museum at the Duomo offers a relaxing way to explore a wealth of artifacts dating from 1500 to 600 BC.

Events and Dining

One must-see event in Siena is the “Italian Opera In Siena”, which runs from mid-April to the end of October every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 9:15 PM. Professional opera singers perform selections of some of the most famous and inspirational arias; and for me, their amazing crystal-clear voices both soothe and excite with sweet, emotional bliss.

Dining in Siena during Palio week requires advance planning, with restaurant reservations often needed weeks in advance. For opera night, La Grotta di San Francesco (excellent seafood) and Salefino Wine & Cuisine (Tuscan selections) are both great choices. A standout experience is dining at Antica Osteria da Divo, where the ancient walls seem to whisper history… as you can feast on an incredibly delicious and romantic meal in a cave-like niche, steeped in the reality of the Etruscan period (my favorite), or you can select a real-life Medieval Hall.

However, not all dining experiences are flawless. During two visits to the Michelin-starred La Taverna di San Giuseppe, we were uncomfortably rushed throughout dinner, and for some reason my filet Mignon arrived barely lukewarm. Despite this, Siena’s culinary scene is generally outstanding, offering a blend of tradition and innovation that delights the senses.

A Journey Worth Every Step

Siena, with its Palio and historic charm, offers an unforgettable glimpse into Italy’s magical heart and soul.
Whether you come for the race, the quaint cobblestone streets, the buildings, or the unique culture, the city’s blend of tradition and emotion will leave an indelible mark on your memories. And as Dino’s journey shows, the Palio is not just about the race itself, but paints a vivid picture about the passion, pride, and perseverance that define Siena’s people and history—a legacy that stretches far beyond the city’s ancient walls.