Introduction to “Ralph’s Corner” – Coming to San Vincenzo

“Have you ever considered retiring in another country?” I asked Lynn not knowing what to expect, but logically thinking the response would be a safe, emphatic “no”!  To my surprise, the mention of Italy seemed to ignite something very exciting within her–as if an electric switch had been flipped, illuminating a path towards a new and thrilling adventure.

Once we agreed, we believed the only way to succeed in such a new adventure was to “step completely off of the dock and onto the boat.”  Fully committing!   So, we bought a home in San Vincenzo, sold everything, and purchased a one-way ticket to a lifetime adventure in Italy never looking back.  Why?  And why San Vincenzo?  Here’s a brief history to put my future writings in context.

First, why? 

I had reached a point in life where I had seen virtually all the USA.  Remaining there seemingly would lead to a monotonous life of  occasional family outings, and very infrequent, expensive trips to Europe for fun.   It would be a dull existence to get old, for sure.  We both preferred a dramatic adventure to a “new life,” to an area we wanted to live and see, and with an environment that would force us to keep growing and learning. 

Risky? Yes.  But invigorating? Absolutely!

Our immediate steps involved contacting an Italian immigration/real estate attorney, carefully analyzing the financial impact of our decision.  Once we knew we would qualify, our attorney recommended that the first step was to purchase a home.  So we started looking in mid-September 2021.

Initially we were drawn to live in Viterbo because my wife (being an artist), was captivated by the romantic idea of living in an ancient medieval town in a stone home.  After a week, we knew it  did not meet our lifelong dreams. 

Fortunately, I had been searching for a “Plan B” coastal property and was attracted to San Vincenzo’s Blue Flag beaches through an advertisement by Nama Real Estate.  We immediately drove to San Vincenzo and were quickly captivated by its charm. 

The first night in San Vincenzo in, we went to Ristorante La Barcaccina, a seaside restaurant on the southern end of town.  It was a night we will never forget.  We arrived at 6:00, an hour prior to dinner, so we went to the expansive top deck for a glass of wine overlooking the sea.  Twilight was upon us.  We were the only ones there on that fateful night.  It may well have been the most romantic moment of my entire life. It was like a fairytale setting–with the melodic sound of the surf of the Tyrrhenian Sea gently lapping the shore beneath the restaurant, while we breathed in fresh sea air and the incredible beauty of the seaside surroundings. The sun was sinking slowly over the horizon and painted vivid colors across the glorious panorama encompassing us.

We were in awe of the sense of history around us… We could imagine the presence of Napoleon on nearby Elba Island silhouetted over the sea, and we could visualize the ancient Etruscans who once lived in the surrounding hills.  I vividly remember that very moment, looking deeply into my wife’s eyes which seemed to endlessly reflect lovingly into mine creating a feeling that is now permanently etched into my soul–the realization of us both existing there, in history together, at that one moment in time.  It was where we belonged.

We ate at La Barcaccina three more times that week, including one evening when a severe windstorm violently shook the shutters of the restaurant windows.  Although the severity of the storm shocked us, we were amazed at how calm the residents were throughout the dinner even though I felt slight trepidation by every pounding blast of wind.  We have since learned to love the experience of the sometimes blustery, exciting, and often electric, Tuscan storms which we now witness as a “divine source of fireworks” from our cozy home-haven windows.

At the time, we had no idea how meaningful that magical first week would be.  Now, two years later, we fully understand it, and have become more lovingly attached to our ever-changing, fun little town. 

I will be writing a lot about interesting experiences and revealing fascinating secrets in the future about San Vincenzo and the area, but let me close with just a summary of the elements that caused us to choose this cute village:

1.     A WEALTH OF PRISTINE BEACHES—The many wonderful beaches (I counted 19) are well documented in this marina resort town.

2.     THE SIZE—We absolutely love the two seasons.  In the winter the town shrinks to about 7,000 which is nice because we gain a sense of community and get to know many of the residents.  In summer the region expands to something like 70,000 in the total area, which creates a pulsating air of excitement and revelry.

3.     WALKABILITY—We walk virtually everywhere within 20 minutes of our home.  The fish store, wine store, cheese store, hardware store, dentist, doctor, train station, supermarkets and the fabulous town Corso are all within an easy walk.

4.     TRAIN ACCESS ANYWHERE—We quickly learned that we can very easily (and inexpensively) take trains anywhere.  We travel a lot.

5.     THE RESORT ATTRACTIONS—Like any major resort town, there is a wealth of fantastic restaurants, bars, entertainment, gelaterias, and fun shopping places.  In summer the Corso comes alive with activities for the evening passaggiata.

6.     THE PEOPLE—In winter, there are few people here that speak English.  Yet, the best part of San Vincenzo is the residents of this warm, friendly town.  They have displayed incredible patience and love for us as we slowly learn the language and customs.  For example: 5 weeks from now, I will have a 73rd birthday party at a friend’s restaurant.  About 40 new Italian friends (mostly much younger), that I didn’t even know two years ago, are expected, and many don’t speak English.  This clearly shows how friendly and caring this community is.

I wrote an article where I talk about how we were welcomed by the people of San Vincenzo (here’s the article >>> “The People of San Vincenzo”).

Again, I feel very privileged to be able to provide some background about our journey to the Tuscan coast, so that I can give you interesting and unique insights into this community and others in the future!

“A dopo!”